Looking at the choice rock on Pinnacle
When I returned in late summer 2011 with Dave Manning and Vaughan Snowdon I was somewhat disappointed by the rock I saw.
We spent the night in Boulder Forks Hut only 50 minutes walk from where we parked. The next morning saw us take the easy walk up Boulder Stream in somewhat confusing topography, as the stream arcs around the many and complicated ridges of Pinnacle. Vaughan vigorously questioned his ‘native guide’, me, and I assured him I was just as confused by the lay of the land the first time I’d come here. However, I really did know where we were going. As we rounded the last bend in the valley at approximately 1,100m the mountain came into view.
Approaching the slabs we eyed up a crack system, approximately in the centre of the south face, which could provide a direct line and spit us onto the ridge after (maybe) four pitches. The closer we got the less we liked what we saw. There were areas that looked ok but nothing linked up and the higher one’s eyes went the looser the rock looked.
On the drive up to Marlborough from Christchurch I had been informed by the others that, if the climbing was no good, I’d be left in Blenheim (because this was my idea). Don’t take it personally, Blenheimites, but that isn’t a prospect I welcomed.
Eventually we scrambled past the slabs and had lunch at the Col Southeast of Pinnacle. We sat and talked about possible lines. The longer we talked, the more I thought I would be deposited in Blenheim against my will. After a rousing feed of pita, salami and brie we decided to skip the poor looking slabs altogether and scrambled to the summit.
Scrambling from the summit
Making our way down the scree slope adjacent to the upper slabs we had one last look at a line that might work. Discussing that fact that we came to climb something, we agreed to give it a go. My harness was mostly racked up when it came out of my pack so I tied in and set off on lead. The first pitch took the crack that tends left to right for about 40m and then straightens up to finish at the bottom of a deep gut.
Photo: Kieran Parsons
The grade wasn’t hard, about 15. However, it was difficult to protect. The edges of the crack were very rounded and un-featured with almost no constrictions, and I had to clear moss to place cams. The crux move is about 20m into the climb. I had a sloper for my right hand and something almost positive for my left, but the challenge was to smear my (already wet) right foot on the wet, mossy, smooth rock while I found my next foot hold. The first time I tried the move my right foot slipped and I held on tight while my right leg flailed in the cool breeze.
Kieran, placing a cam. Photo: Vaughan Snowdon
I considered retreating and settling for a night in Blenheim but I didn’t really trust the pro’ enough to abseil. I figured I’d just climb through it till I could find a decent anchor. As the pitch straighten up at the 40 metre mark things got a little steeper and the odd move was about grade 14 or 15 but the rock was a little more featured and I got a bomber number three stopper placement. Once in the gut I found a reasonable anchor 58 metres off the deck. The climbing above looked pretty easy so I belayed the others up.
Vaughan led the second and final pitch with climbing at about grade 12 (ballpark). He had a go at an arête to the left of the gut. It looked good but it turned out to be extreme choss. So, Vaughan regained the gut and topped out on the ridge, 30m above us.
Packing up on the ridge
We continued on to the summit for the second time and descended easy scree on route to the hut.
Vaughan taking a break on the way down
The next day we drove back to Christchurch and, miraculously, the boys didn’t even mention the idea of leaving me in Blenheim.
Mossy, wet, chossy and hard to protect, all in all the climbing was crap! Reflecting on the route I couldn’t help but ignore the fact that we achieved exactly what we set out do, which was to climb these unclimbed (as far as is known) slabs.
The sun sets south of Pinnacle
In an objective sense the trip was a success but subjectively it felt more akin to failure. I've had more enjoyment on climbs that were a failure but the actual climbing was good. I guess it really is the quality of the climbing that counts.
Honestly, what was I thinking? We aren’t "alpine rock jocks" anyway.
Not for Rock Jocks 15 – Kieran Parsons, Vaughan Snowdon and David Manning – 19 March 2011
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