Oates: Hate the cerial, like the mountain

We decided to squeeze this into a day approached from Goat Pass via the Minga Valley. The plan was to climb the 'West Ridge' route which takes a gully gaining the ridge just below the summit. Due to some more top notch navigation on my part we missed, but never fear, found the South Ridge and that was plenty exciting.

Looking at the final section of the South Ridge

There are mountains up there somewhere

The day didnt start with promise as we were presented with a valley full of cloud. The forecast suggested it would clear though, so with fingers crossed we headed up valley. Things went our way and on reaching Lake Mavis we were greated by a perfect day.

Mt Oates

From here the route heads over the lower west ridge to drop into a basin on the south west side of the peak. The gully we were aiming for appears from here to head up to the west ridge at about half height in a rather extreme example of forshortning. If you head further round as we did the south side of the moutain is revealed.

The route we merrily wandered by is on the far right here

Heading up to the South Ridge

The ridge can easily be gained on the south side of the steep stuff and from there its a short section of exposed cornice riddled climbing to reach the summit.

Negotiating the ridge

Kieren just below the summit

Thats a 'check' for Mt Oates

Mt Franklin in the background on the way back down

The way down provided some awesome skiing form just past the diffulculties on the ridge. The snow was probably best described as late season slush but with a bit of speed it was good fun. Snowline was hovering aroung 1500m and as I sit inside with the heatpump cranking it could be around there for a little while yet.
Read more