Traversing: A New Route on the South Face of Mt Travers (2338m)

Dave said he wanted to get on something “steep”. My stomach knotted, I knew this meant one thing. Dave wanted to have a crack at one of the new routes we had been discussing periodically. I went quiet for a while, trying to think of way to talk him out of this. I came up with arguments like “I haven’t climbed a route that steep before”. Dave said something to the effect of ‘we’ll just go and see what happens’. Eventually I agreed to attempt the first ascent of the South Face of Mt Travers.

South Face of Mt Travers, mouse over for line of route

One and a half days later I rested next to Lake Rotoiti. A bellbird called and the sun whipped at my eyes through a gap in a beech tree as it reflected off the calm lake top. I peered past the surface and focused on the deep turquoise water. At that moment I felt totally at peace. It’s amazing what the introduction of risk can induce. Then a thought went through my head, if something goes wrong on this trip at least I’ve had this moment. That’s what was going over in my mind on the 32km approach to Upper Travers Hut.

The next morning we got our first view of the South face just after sunrise, as we were approaching the start of our route. We deliberately didn’t do an alpine start. This was to be an ‘on sight’ attempt and neither of us had seen the south face in the flesh. A couple of photos in the guidebook were all we had to go by.

Plugging up the lower snowfield one can see an overhanging headwall. The thin ice line we opted to avoid is also visible

Dave turned to me and exclaimed “Fuck, it looks like the Eiger!” He later qualified that by saying, “without the massive rock wall at the bottom.” A few minutes later we were both motionless, staring up at the face Dave mentioned that we could go climb something else, Kehu maybe. I just responded with “fuck it, we came here to climb this” I was super psyched, my how my disposition had changed overnight. So I plugged up the lower snowfield, set a t-slot and Dave got on the sharp end. The climbing had begun.

Kieran half way up the first pitch

When we had been discussing our “steep” options back in Christchurch we had also agreed that Dave would be on lead. I didn’t feel I possessed the experience needed given this was my first year of mountaineering.

The first pitch was straight forward and steepest in the bottom section where we abandoned the lower snowfield via a band of rocks and a thin gully. Conditions weren’t exactly in our favour or in support of the direct line we were seeking. There was a distinct lack of snow and what was available had formed neither suitable alpine or water ice. Rather, we had unconsolidated snow, patches of sugar and occasional areas of thin, hard ice on rock. We had hoped for an ice line that could take us to the upper snowfield but there was only a marginal attempt by the mountain to produce enough of the good stuff. Gazing up what would have been demanding mixed climbing we opted to traverse to the climber’s right, below the buttress between us and the upper snowfield.

Kieran seconding the third pitch

Pitch two included interesting climbing on protruding rock that gave opportunity for much needed secure runners. I have a feeling that the average number of runners per pitch on this climb was two. On pitches two and three we hugged the buttress tightly and I believe the steepest climbing on the face was during pitch three. It was certainly “steep” as the lower slopes appeared flat. I couldn’t put a definitive angle on it. Such measures seem so subjective.

Climbing close to the buttress at the top of pitch four

Conditions were worst on the fourth pitch. Repeatedly I struggled to place my tools or front points in a fashion that pleased me. I often searched for rock below the sugary snow that would provide adequate places to hook a tool. It must have been nerve racking to lead a steep and extremely run out pitch in such poor conditions. Dave deserves a lot of credit for this. Seconding this pitch was at the top of my present mental capacity.

When I was on belay at pitch 5 my calves were on the burn and I was shivering constantly. I was wearing a merino and two fleece layers. Why didn’t I take out my downy? I suppose I didn’t want to waste anymore time. We were averaging 1 hour 10 minutes per pitch. Besides, every time I caught up to Dave I had warmed up sufficiently to keep the hypothermia at bay.

On Pitch 5 the slope angle eased. Dave had traversed left to avoid a rather steep gut with very thin and hard ice in its bowls. I followed, however, the rope had already found its way into the gut and there was too much drag for me to flick it out. By the time I joined Dave on the Southwest ridge we had a problem on our hands.

View towards the Kaikouras

Through the combination of misjudging the approach and getting the rope stuck we were running out of light. After the rope was freed we reconvened. It was 4.30pm and we had arrived below the “principal difficulty” of the East and South East Ridges. Remembering the ridge is tagged with a 3+ we knew it wouldn’t be fast travel. Dave suggested we rap and down climb the face. I was for continuing to the summit for a number of reasons. I felt we were going to end up travelling in the dark regardless and I had spied an easy descent route down summit creek the day before. Second, we only had one 60m rope. Last of all, I just don’t like down climbing.

Pitch 6 now and it was just after 5pm. The rope hadn’t moved for 20 minutes. I was thinking, man, I’m so stupid, now were going to be out on unknown technical terrain in the dark, we should have down climbed while there was some light. Better yet, I shouldn’t have got the rope stuck. Until now I had only felt the sort of fear that motivates one to focus on climbing well, but now I was genuinely scared. So much for the comfort I thought I had gained the day before.

Emerging from the chimney on the ridge

Then Dave yelled “KIERAN” .... “YEAH” I replied.... “I JUST DID A PACK HAUL UP A CHIMNEY” I processed this for a second... “OK, HOW DOES IT LOOK ABOVE YOU?”......................... “BETTER........ BETTER” I felt some relief, although I knew Dave well enough to know that we weren’t out of the woods yet. When I arrived at the Chimney I just shoved myself in, pack and all and learnt new ways to use my crampons. I wasn’t about to waste anymore time. When I busted out the top of the chimney I could see Dave about 30m ahead and not far above him lay the easier terrain.

The light was fading on the final sections of the ridge

The seventh pitch was short with only one concentrated move before the walk began. It felt bloody good to put the rope away.

Putting the rope away in the final light of the day

A few short steps and we were on the summit at 6pm. All that was left of the precious sunlight was a slither of orange to the West. We paused for a photo and then set about finding the summit creek route with the twilight that remained.

Summit time

We arrived back at the hut shortly before midnight. With sore calves and broses from the vegetated boulders of the descent, we tucked into some much needed food and had a sleep in before the walk out.

Traversing – David Manning and Kieran Parsons, 12 July 2010 - Mt Cook Grade 4